Paris Fashion Week Recap: Dior’s New Deal
One of fashion’s most noteworthy months closed out with Paris Fashion Week, held from September 29 to October 7, showcasing womenswear for the Spring/Summer 2026 season. Among the standout presentations was Jonathan Anderson’s Dior, a collection that balanced the house’s storied heritage with a distinctly modern touch. As a newly appointed creative director, the Irish native had much to live up to, reviving one of fashion’s most iconic legacies while carving out his own vision. The result was a show that captivated audiences worldwide, offering a reassuring and inspiring glimpse into Anderson’s new chapter with Dior.
It was formally announced in June of this year that Jonathan Anderson would become the new creative director for both the men’s and women’s collections at Dior, succeeding Maria Grazia Chiuri, who led the house for nine years before moving to Fendi. Anderson revealed his departure from Loewe, the Spanish fashion house he revitalized during his 11-year tenure as creative director, just a few months prior in March. The jump from Loewe to Dior seemed abrupt to some users on social media platforms such as Instagram and TikTok, but the designer has long proven his talent and keen eye for true fashion.
By. Lily Saunders
Dior’s Spring/Summer 2026 womenswear show took place in the Tuileries Garden in Paris on October 1, drawing a packed audience that notably included French First Lady Brigitte Macron, Mikey Madison, Johnny Depp, Taylor Russell, Jenna Ortega, and Jennifer Lawrence, among others, all seated in the front row. The set design was created by filmmaker Luca Guadagnino, a longtime collaborator of Anderson, and Stefano Baisi, who drew inspiration from Dior’s rich history. Central to the design was a Dior shoebox motif, symbolizing the brand’s stored legacy and archive revival showcased throughout the show. The show opened with a screen reading “Do you Dare Enter the House of Dior?”
Through Anderson’s personal Instagram page, he has hinted at a revival and homage to classic Dior logos and designs, elements he later wove into the womenswear collection. Most notably, he reintroduced the original Dior logo across all items, signaling a return to the brand’s timeless identity. As the first designer at Dior to oversee both the men’s and women’s collections and only two months to curate the womenswear line, Anderson has created a deliberate intersection between the two lines, an intentional move that underscores his vision of fluidity within the house.
Jonathan Anderson - Courtesy of Vogue Runway
Key themes of the collection include more fitted and structured jackets, reminiscent of the doll-like silhouette seen in the Dior menswear pieces. Large bows, structured hats, pastel hues, tweed and peplum fabrics, bubble skirts, and intricate lace detailing highlighted the meticulous attention to detail in each design. A nod to Dior’s storied history came in the form of Anderson’s reimagined 1948 Delft Dress, transformed into a miniskirt for the runway.
Anderson, perhaps best known for his accessories, showcased plenty on the runway. Standout pieces included heeled shoes featuring matching “C” and “D” embellishments for Christian Dior, as well as heels adorned with intricate rose detailing. Handbags were also a focal point, with fresh takes on the classic Lady Dior bag alongside suede and multicolored designs..
As with many high-profile collections, reactions were mixed once the runway show went online. On TikTok, one user declared, “This man saved Dior,” while another remarked, “The old Christian Dior is rolling in his grave right now,” reflecting the polarized opinions surrounding the collection.
Regardless of opinion, a teary-eyed Anderson closed the show, ushering audiences into a new era of Dior. With a workload surpassing that of past creative directors, he delivered a meticulous, ambitious collection brimming with detail and grace. The best is undoubtedly yet to come for Dior.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway