FRUiTS Fashion Magazine: Celebrating the Diversity of Personal Style
11 / 13 / 23
By: Ava Stamatelaky
“Style is a way to say who you are without having to speak.”
- Rachel Zoe, fashion designer, businesswoman, and stylist.
The beautiful thing about fashion is that not everyone has the same taste. This allows people to celebrate diversity, inclusivity, confidence, and self-expression. Shoichi Aoki, a photographer born and based in Japan, captures the individuality and essence of the streets of Tokyo and the individuals who use it as their personal runway.
Founded in 1997, Aoki’s fashion magazine FRUiTS sought to spotlight the vibrant and avant-garde street styles of the Harajuku district in Japan. FRUiTS magazine was published with the aim of celebrating and showcasing the unconventional and unapologetic styles of young people.
FRUiTS Magazine has always been more than just the clothing. If you were to do a simple search on your browser or a flip through one of their magazines, it would be evident that the clash of colors, variety of textures, and layering of different styles on each person works because of originality. The magazine's essence highlights that personal style is a reflection of an individual's personality, experiences, and cultural influences.
During the release of FRUiTs, the magazine emerged as a counter-cultural response to the highly curated and homogenous fashion scene of its time. A combination of DIY pieces (crochet, tye dye, fabric manipulation) and various high-end brands such as Vivienne Westwood, Ralph Lauren, and Yves Saint Laurent are often spotted whilst examining those showcased. Instead of highlighting the industry’s elites, the magazine's lens turned towards the Harajuku style. The main concepts of Harajuku stem from the individual’s freedom of expression and the blending of different styles. Additionally, the idea of mixing and matching western ideas and Japan’s cultural heritage was a sensitive as well as dangerous topic.
“For Japanese people, it is very difficult to mix traditional Japanese clothing elements with Western dress. It’s very difficult to get it right,” Aoki explains in a 2016 interview with Dazed magazine.
What sets FRUiTS apart is its commitment to featuring real people with their own unique fashion sensibilities. Pages are filled with vibrant photographs of individuals who proudly wear their identities on their sleeves, unapologetically expressing themselves through their clothing. It became accessible in other languages 25 years later, presenting the opportunity for others to also appreciate the full work of the magazine. All archives of FRUiTS can still be found online, but new productions of the magazine unfortunately ceased in February 2017. Still, the spirit of FRUiTS carries on as many designers and stylists still use the magazine as a prime example of self-expression. In order to commemorate the magazine's so-called bible for experimental personal style, the brand Opening Ceremony installed a pop-up capsule collection in April 2017. Opening Ceremony co-founder, Humberto Leon wanted to express his deep appreciation for the magazine by selling graphic t-shirts and hoodies inspired by it.
“Aoki is a pioneer in street fashion photography, and when I heard he was ending the magazine, I felt the need to pay tribute to someone who has influenced me,” said Leon in a 2017 interview with Vogue magazine.
The magazine has been breaking down gender barriers in the fashion industry as it promotes the idea that anyone is able to wear anything. Piercings, skirts, flared pants, tights, belts, boots, and what have you can be worn by anyone. It showcases individuals who challenge traditional notions of masculinity and femininity, proving that personal style knows no bounds.
Though FRUiTS magazine emerged as a response to the curated and homogenous fashion scene, the intent seems to be more about personal expression and breaking free from tradition. However, it's also important to acknowledge that the magazine and its contributors should be mindful of potential cultural insensitivities. Several issues of the magazine have pages of cultural appropriation — the exploitation of other cultures, religions, and traditions. Examples of cultural appropriation shown throughout a few issues of the magazine include black hairstyles and head wraps.
Although FRUiTS was pivotal, it's important to note that when celebrating diversity, it's essential for individuals and the fashion industry as a whole to be mindful of the potential pitfalls of cultural appropriation. Open conservations about cultural sensitivity, understanding, and respect can contribute to more inclusive and respectful representation.
FRUiTS Magazine has not only revolutionized the way we perceive personal style but also paved the way for a more diversified fashion landscape. By celebrating the individuality of its subjects, the magazine sends a powerful message: fashion is a form of self-expression that transcends boundaries. As we continue to navigate the ever-evolving world of fashion, FRUiTS remains a beacon of authenticity and a testament to the power of personal style.