Androgyny on the Runway: Margiela Defies Norms in 2019 Collection

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Androgyny on the Runway: Margiela Defies Norms in 2019 Collection

By Hana Chabinsky

Maison Margiela’s 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection featured garments stripped down to their core. Staying true to the edgy aesthetic of the Maison, there was no shortage of manipulated, deconstructed, and exaggerated pieces. The models, like the clothing, looked very raw, sporting little makeup and sleek hair. Many of the female models had shaved heads, while the male models proudly wore long skirts and shift dresses with mary jane flats. Vice writer, Steve Salter states that designer John Galliano “pushed-possibilities, blurred-boundaries and swept the dust from this atelier-powered artform.”

Galliano’s stripped down collection defies gender norms and competes with the binary. Women sporting oversized, boxy garments and men modeling pant suits with a cinched waist creates tension with today’s social and gender norms. Galliano claims this collection was partially inspired by the new Gen X and Y consumers who will make up 45% of luxury buyers by 2025. This generation, who is more accepting of gender and sexual fluidity than the baby boomer generation, proves welcoming to Galliano’s androgynous collection.

You can be sure to see androgynous and gender defying fashion at almost any industry event.  Billy Porter wearing a Christian Siriano Tuxedo dress to the Oscars, Ezra Miller rocking a bold lip at the 2019 Saint Laurent Fashion Show, or Cody Fern and Judy Greer at the Golden Globes, are all clear examples of fashion disruptors. As celebrities and their designers pave the way for a new era of non-binary fashion, they set a precedent for nonconformity and explorative expression.